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Dark and smoky clubs with leather dressed damned characters. It’s in this kind of places that the Rick Owens brand show take place.
An androginous aesthetic, chock- full of underground culture and grunge, oriental sculpted silhouette in the maner of Issey Miyake and an almost monochromatic palette. Mr. Owens thinks about its dresses worn around the world, where there are colors everywhere, and paradoxically they will be overlooked, so he doesn’t care about shades, he concentrates on shapes.
Rick Owens was born in the sunny California and, despite his dark aura, he frequents the Otis College of Art and Design although he doesn’t complete the studies. During 90’s, after he met Michele Lamy, his partner and muse both in life and business, he starts creating clothes from vintage pieces and scraps took found at markets. After this amateur beginning, in which this one of a kind items were gifted to his friends, Rick Owens was selected by Charles Galley, the historycal Los Angeles boutique which already discovered Martin Margiela and Azzedine Alaïa.
In 1994 he and Michele Lamy officialized the creation of the brand Rick Owens and they left the city of Angels for Paris, the city that will welcome the HQ and the rise of man and woman’s collection.
In 2002 Kate moss wears a Rick Owens jacket in a shooting inside the glamorous Vogue Paris. The shoot, and the jacket in particular capture the attention of Anna Wintour, fahion Guru and Vogue America’s director. She brings Rick Owens at NY fashion week defyining him an emerging brand to keep an eye on.
Rick Owens represents one of the rare designer who brings on the table an extremely recognizable personal aesthetic language. Defined as glunge, a crasis between glamour and grunge, his aesthetic is shaped in underground and californian street style from 90’s and it’s enhanced by couture elements and then it undergoes a very personal and artistic manupulation of shape, cuts and volumes. Everyone can recognize Rick Owens signature at the sight of very long cardigans and long crotch pants.
His provocatory and apparently superficial irreverence, which questions the aesthetic rules of canonic beauty, hides instead a rigorous and well thought phylosophical thinking that make Rick Owens a true fashion artist.